Field Notes, Winter, 2003-2004

Background

The motorable road from Zanskar to the outside world remains inaccessible for nearly nine months every year, due to heavy snowfall that closes access over Penzi La (pass).

This is the time when the people of Zanskar make pilgrimages to other places. With the mountaintops buried in snow and ice, they walk out for several days along the frozen surface of the Zanskar River, a walk known to Ladakhis as “Chadder.”

This past winter Tashi Thundup, SLC Field Assistant for Zanskar, accompanied mountaineer/IMAX filmmaker David Breashears, and National Geographic photographer Steve Winter on a reconnaissance of Ladakh and Zanskar that included an experience on the Chadder. Tashi was also able to do some project monitoring in Lingshed Village, where they met with the Headman and discussed progress on the corral predator-proofing program.

Following is Tashi’s account, only slightly edited to retain the flavor:

Trekking On Chadder Ice Frozen River

By Tashi Thundup

We left on 20th January 2004, with eighteen porters. The river was seem not frozen safely, and we including porters climb up steep mountain and descending with help of ropes. Next morning we wake up early morning sighting the snow leopard sign and ibex. The weather was much cloudy and extreme cold and we walked 6 hours. At the Markha La camp the day was very fortunate; we saw fresh snow leopard scrape, dropping, strong marking, fresh track on main trails, and Steve and David have taken lots of pictures, they were much pleased. They said the Chadder valley was really good snow leopard and prey habitat.

David and I get up 5:30 am, and hiking up it was snowing a little and we were patiently looking around the valley but our eyes did not see; but on the day we saw a group of ibex going up the steep mountain. Steve has gotten several photos. On the way we met five trekking groups back from Zanskar and a number of porters. The people of Zanskar were able to earn between 6000-8000 rupees each of them during the winter season. In future they would like to see more visitors; this sustained income generation can change their livelihood. We arrived the Lingshed Village in only five days.

Lingshed village was very beautiful with a covering of snow. There are 800 people in 92 households. We rest three days. We wanted to monitor the progress of their corral predator-proofing, but due to heavy snow fall we could not do that. According former head man Tashi Angdus the corrals are quite effective to decreasing depredation losses. The shepherds well realized it was really beneficial for all the villagers. Steve has taken several pictures of Ladakhi kitchen and Ladakhi traditional head dresses of head man wife.

Next day David and his guide, Lhakpa, went hiking up after breakfast. Steve and I visit to monastery. We met my friend Lama Tsewang. He said last few days the snow leopard has killed three goats near the village, the people of Lingshed was not using trap and not hunting last ten years. When we get back to village, David was smiling. I ask him what your smiling face, and he said we sighted four wolf together.

The 28th January was very chilly and weather was much cloudy. The river was not frozen properly, the water coming out the surface. We walked one hour beneath of water and with holding on rock. In evening about 7:30pm all of our colleagues were absolutely tired, 8 hours walked. And we did not find good camping site. In dark we camped on Sandy field near the bank of river. We arrived at Chilling Village on 30th January, and drove back to Leh singing a song, all National Geographic group and all porters.

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